Saturday, September 7, 2013

Baudelaire's Distortion of Beauty: Emanating from his Rejection of God


From Milton's Paradise Lost
Satan rouses his followers to wage war against God
Illustration by Richard Westall [1765 – 1836]
Engraving by Jean Pierre Simon [born before 1750 - died circa 1810]


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Tiberge, of Galliawatch, sent me the following passage by Baudelaire with the note:

"Why don't you comment on Baudelaire's idea of beauty? Or have you already done so? Here it is:"

The quote is from:
Journaux intimes. Fusées. Mon coeur mis à nu (By Charles Baudelaire)
Pp 18-20

The French edition, from 1920, is available here online.

Here is the passage:
J'ai trouvé la définition du Beau, de mon Beau.

C'est quelque chose d'ardent et de triste, quelque chose d'un peu vague, laissant carrière à la conjecture. Je vais, si l'on veut, appliquer mes idées à un objet sensible, à l'objet par exemple, le plus intéressant dans la société, à un visage de femme. Une tête séduisante et belle, une tête de femme, veux-je dire, c'est une tête qui fait rêver à la fois, — mais d'une manière confuse, — de volupté et de tristesse ; qui comporte une idée de mélancolie, de lassitude, même de satiété, — soit une idée contraire, c'est-à-dire une ardeur, un désir de vivre, associés avec une amertume refluante, comme venant de privation ou de désespérance. Le mystère, le regret sont aussi des caractères du Beau.

Une belle tête d'homme n'a pas besoin de comporter, aux yeux d'un homme bien entendu, — excepté, peut-être, aux yeux d'une femme, — cette idée de volupté, qui, dans un visage de femme, est une provocation d'autant plus attirante que le visage est généralement plus mélancolique. Mais cette tête contiendra aussi quelque chose d'ardent et de triste, — des besoins spirituels, — des ambitions ténébreusement refoulées, — l'idée d'une puissance grondante et sans emploi, — quelquefois l'idée d'une insensibilité vengeresse (car le type idéal du dandy n'est pas à négliger dans ce sujet); quelquefois aussi, — et c'est l'un des caractères de beauté les plus intéressants — le mystère, et enfin (pour que j'aie le courage d'avouer jusqu'à quel point je me sens moderne en esthétique), le malheur. Je ne prétends pas que la Joie ne puisse pas s'associer avec la Beauté, mais je dis que la Joie est un des ornements les plus vulgaires, tandis que la Mélancolie en est pour ainsi dire l'illustre compagne, à ce point que je ne conçois guère (mon cerveau serait-il un miroir ensorcelé?) un type de Beauté où il n'y ait du Malheur. Appuyé sur — d'autres diraient: obsédé par—ces idées, on conçoit qu'il me serait difficile de en pas conclure que le plus parfait type de Beauté virile est Satan, — à la manière de Milton.
I will only partially translate it, and write my comments underneath - translation in italics (here is a full translation into English, recommended by Tiberge]:

J'ai trouvé la définition du Beau, de mon Beau
I have found the definition of the Beautiful, my beautiful
[KPA: He is rather pompous, giving us "his" definition.]

C'est quelque chose d'ardent et de triste, quelque chose d'un peu vague
It is something passionate and sad, a little vague
[KPA: He gives it a definite, strong definition, then goes into the anticlimactic "sad" and "vague."]

He then wants to use it to describe a woman's beauty, a woman's face.
...une tête de femme, veux-je dire, c'est une tête qui fait rêver à la fois, — mais d'une manière confuse, — de volupté et de tristesse ; qui comporte une idée de mélancolie, de lassitude, même de satiété,
...a woman's head, I would like to say, is a head that makes one dream both of voluptuousness and of sadness, but in a confused way; which carries with it melancholy, laziness and even satisfaction.
[KPA: A seductive and beautiful face, he explains, is a woman's face. It is a face of dreams (and fantasies?), but a face which evokes sadness, weariness, and even melancholy.]

Why this negative approach towards a beautiful woman's face?

Even the life he gives to a woman's face, a woman's beauty, is negative:
[U]ne ardeur, un désir de vivre, associés avec une amertume refluante, comme venant de privation ou de désespérance
an ardour, a desire to live, linked with a returning bitterness, due to some lack or desperation.
[KPA: Bitterness and desperation are words that he uses, as he "livens up" a beautiful woman's face.]

Perhaps this is it. He continues:
Le mystère, le regret sont aussi des caractères du Beau.
Mystery, regret are also characteristics of the Beautiful
[KPA: Has he been rejected that many times by beautiful women that he has resorted to bitterness?]

Je ne prétends pas que la Joie ne puisse pas s'associer avec la Beauté, mais je dis que la Joie est un des ornements les plus vulgaires, tandis que la Mélancolie en est pour ainsi dire l'illustre compagne...
I don't claim that Joy cannot associate with Beauty, but, I say that Joy is one of the coarsest of ornaments, whereas Melancholy is, as it were, its exemplary companion.
[KPA: He admits that joy can be associated with beauty, but he finds this joy vulgar, whereas melancholy is beauty's best companion.]

...à ce point que je ne conçois guère (mon cerveau serait-il un miroir ensorcelé?) un type de Beauté où il n'y ait du Malheur.
...at this point, I cannot conceive of (could my brain be a bewitched mirror?) a kind of Beauty where there is no misery.
[KPA: Beauty is linked with misery for Baudelaire.]

...il me serait difficile de en pas conclure que le plus parfait type de Beauté virile est Satan, — à la manière de Milton.
...I would find it difficult not to conclude that the perfect kind of masculine Beauty is the Satan, - as Milton wrote.
[KPA: As much as a woman't beauty may best be associated with melacholy and a vague sadness, he is more definitive about masculine beauty: the perfect type of virile beauty is that of Satan.]

In any case, beauty can have no redeeming factors for Baudelaire.

I think this horror of beauty, and its association with Satan in Baudelaire's case, comes from artists (and people) who have rejected God. Looking for beauty without God puts us in Satan's territory, where the beautiful becomes horrifically transformed.

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Here is Baudlelaire's Les Litanies de Satan.

I have reproduced the complete poem, in English, below, to show Baudelaire's distorted and corrupted mind.
The Litanies of Satan

O thou, of all the Angels loveliest and most learned,
To whom no praise is chanted and no incense burned,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

O Prince of exile, god betrayed by foulest wrong,
Thou that in vain art vanquished, rising up more strong,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

O thou who knowest all, each weak and shameful thing,
Kind minister to man in anguish, mighty king,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

Thou that dost teach the leper, the pariah we despise,
To love like other men, and taste sweet Paradise,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

O thou, that in the womb of Death, thy fecund mate,
Engenderest Hope, with her sweet eyes and her mad gait,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

Thou who upon the scaffold dost give that calm and proud
Demeanor to the felon, which condemns the crowd,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

Thou that hast seen in darkness and canst bring to light
The gems a jealous God has hidden from our sight,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

Thou to whom all the secret arsenals are known
Where iron, where gold and silver, slumber, locked in stone,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

Thou whose broad hand dost hide the precipice from him
Who, barefoot, in his sleep, walks on the building's rim,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

O thou who makest supple between the horses' feet
The old bones of the drunkard fallen in the street,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

Thou who best taught the frail and over-burdened mind
How easily saltpeter and sulphur are combined,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

Thou that hast burned thy brand beyond all help secure,
Into the rich man's brow, who tramples on the poor,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

O thou, who makest gentle the eyes and hearts of whores
With kindness for the wretched, homage for rags and sores,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

Staff of the exile, lamp of the inventor, last
Priest of the man about whose neck the rope is passed,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

O thou, adopted father of those fatherless
Whom God from Eden thrust in terror and nakedness,

Satan, have pity upon me in my deep distress!

Prayer

Glory and praise to thee, Satan, in the most high,
Where thou didst reign; and in deep hell's obscurity,
Where, manacled, thou broodest long! O silent power,
Grant that my soul be near to thee in thy great hour,
When, like a living Temple, victorious bough on bough,
Shall rise the Tree of Knowledge, whose roots are in thy brow!

— Charles Baudelaire

Translation by Edna St. Vincent Millay, 1936.
[Here's a brief background on the poem from Wikipedia]
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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Antidote for Red and Black: Blue

What does a non-Western inhabitant of the West conjure up when she has to make a wedding dress in the West?

NOT makes a white dress.

And, since the color palette is her world, why not go for the most abrasive?

Last year, Vera Wang made red wedding dresses, from a bright "new blood" red, to a darker "older blood." They looked like what vampires might wear. I semi-excused her by saying her red dresses may be referencing her Chinese tradition (regardless that Wang was brought up as an "American" and as far as I know has never lived in China; that she married - and divorced - a white American; and her two daughters were apparently brought up as Americans).


Vera Wang Spring 2013 Bridal Collection: Vampire Theme

For her 2014 collection, it is clear that Wang's intention is once again to go as far away as possible from the traditional, Western white wedding dress. She's going black. She's done black in full tulle in 2010, and periodically since then.


Vera Wang's Charcoal Black Collection from 2010

This time, for her 2014 bridal collection, the black that Wang is adding is by accessorizing with long, black leather gloves. Her brides look like they're Harley Davidson bikers' brides, or they're in an S&M-themed wedding. But, Wang is clever. Those full-on black dresses cannot have been very popular, and the white dress with long, black pleather gloves will be more acceptable.


Vera Wang Black Wedding Dress
from her Fall 2014 Bridal Collection: S&M Pleather


Amsale, on the other hand, who I think is Wang's direct rival (being a non-white, prestigious wedding dress designer) is going for whimsical gowns. I have written that Amsale is probably channeling her Christian background, which grounds her closer to a Western mindset. The closest to color that Amsale has designed is off-white dresses. And these are very few.


Amsale, Spring 2014
Keeping it Simple


Carolina Herrera, another haute couture rival, keeps the gowns white, but her brides' bouquets are a a meddley of colors. The red roses reference her dramatic Spanish background, although she does have white and yellow bouquets:


Carolina Herrera Spring 2014 Bridal Collection

And finally there's Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, who adds color more subtly with whispers of "something blue" in delicate robin blue.

The strips of blue ribbon are also a cultural reference, and don't diminish the "whiteness" of the gowns.


Wedding Gown of Caroline Sieber
From the September 2013 Vogue
Inspired by a portrait of
Empress Elisabeth of Austria
by Franz Xaver Winterhalter



Franz Xaver Winterhalter
Empress Elisabeth of Austria
1865
Oil on canvas

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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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Friday, September 6, 2013

Scents for Summer



Guerlain is indeed the perfume house of greatness, although it had a small blimp with its variation on La Petite Robe Noire - Eau de Toilette (I wrote here a few days ago praising the LPRN Eau de Parfum, but disappointed with the new Eau de Toilette which came out just a few months ago).

I went back to Sephora's to look for more Guerlain scents. I remember a series of tall, rounded bottles, which looked ominously large (and expensive). These are the Allegoria series of about ten Eau de Toilettes.

A few were on display. There was nothing smaller than 75 ml (or 2.5floz) which goes for $65. The sales girl gave me a tiny sample each of Herba Fresca and Nerolia Bianca. I wanted to analyze the dry-downs ("The final phase - or bottom note - of a fragrance, which emerges several hours after application. Perfumers evaluate the base notes and the tenacity of the fragrance during this stage.")

Here are the notes for Herba Fresca:
Top: Lemon, Clover
Middle: Green Tea, Mint
Base: Cylamen, Lily of the Valley, Pear Blossom
The Cyclamen scent:
...is light floral. A little like lily of the valley, but sweeter and lighter. It isn't obvious ...but if you pick a few flowers they can fill a room with scent for a few hours.[By Commenter Chris Bartlett at Basenotes]
The mint is overpowering at first, but about fifteen minutes later, it subsides and adds a pleasant freshness. A little longer, and a flowery scent (cyclamen?) starts to dominate. But the general fragrance is fresh and leafy. I think Herba Fresca is a perfect scent for late summer: fresh and nostalgic.

I would have liked a smaller bottle, and of course, consequently, a lower price. But, as I've experienced, Guerlain is eternal, and this bottle can go through many summers.

Herba Fresca was created in 1999.

The much newer Nerolia Bianca (created in 2013) is stronger. It starts out soft, then builds up to a heavy scent. It seems suited for a hot midsummer's day. The base notes are a strong medley of musk, white amber and cedarwood, and combined with the the neroli flower, I think give it the heavy sweetness.

About the Neroli:
Neroli is the name given to the oil extracted by steam-distillation from the fragrant white flower blossoms of bitter orange trees...

Neroli has a light sweet-floral fragrance with an element of citrus. It is said to have a refreshing, honeyed floral aroma. It is commonly used as a top note in modern fragrances.
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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Obama the Warmonger

Here is a photograph of Obama taken while he was making his case for "saving" Syrian citizens in his G-20 speech:


US President Barack Obama speaks during his news conference at the G-20 Summit
in St. Petersburg, Russia, Friday, Sept. 6, 2013
[Source: The Stamford Advocate, Friday, September 6, 2013]


I watched him briefly make his speech, and all I could think of was, like this New York Times commentator wrote:
What a pathetic little man.
(Quote via a commentator at The Thinking Housewife, in the posting Obama Losing His Greatest Fans.)
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Heavenly Dream Angels



My mall has a large Victoria's Secret store. I had read somewhere that Victoria's Secret also has a perfume line (or lines). I was curious, and went in.

I happened to be there when they were selling a smaller bottle from the advertised original: 2.5floz vs. 8.4floz, and at about the same percentage reduction in price. It came in a package with an eye-shadow set.



The slate, brown and gold are a nice combination, and the "Get the Look" guide has directions for night and day application.

Here are the notes for Heavenly Dream Angels (Angel Mist):
Top: Quince, Cardamom, Orange, Ivy
Middle: Lotus, Peony, Freesia, Iris, Violet
Base: Orchid, Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood
[Source: Fragrantica]
I find it initially a little to sweet, but it softens over time and the vanilla and musk base notes start to take over. I think it is the quince which gives it this exaggeratedly sweet scent. "...deep and honey-sweet with a strong citrus or pineapple note and a rather exotic spiciness all in one," is how this blogger describes the scent. I think that is a good description. The bottle is pretty too. Long and sheer, with a gold top.
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Shalimar: Senses in a Bottle

Below is an unpublished, short article: Shalimar: Senses in a Bottle which I wrote around 2008. (Retrieved from Camera Lucida and Kidist P. Asrat Articles.)

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Shalimar: Senses in a Bottle

Sight, sound, touch, taste, and of course smell combine together to make Shalimar.

Guerlain, one of the oldest fragrance companies in the world, introduced its famously exotic perfume Shalimar in 1925. A combination of flavorful spices, aromatic woods and smooth, powdery florals gives this perfume a distinctive fragrance. A secret ingredient called Guerlinade, which goes into all the Guerlain perfumes, was added to seal the final product.

As perfumeries (and individuals) were gathering their favorite scents over the centuries, spices, florals, woods, roots and animal scents were combined in non-discriminate manners, with their scents being the decisive factors. Spices for food and perfumes were only recently separated from serving the two distinct senses of smell and taste. Vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and even cloves have always been part of perfumes. Shalimar, true to this ancient practice in perfume making, includes the versatile vanilla as one of its ingredients.

The ancient Greek botanist Theophrastus considered these compounded scents to be the most sophisticated and successful fragrances, and even suggested that perfumes be considered along musical terms. Modern-day structuring of the various scents considers the whole product in terms of a musical chord. Top notes are the most short-lived of the odorants, followed by the more enduring middle notes, or corps odors, and finally the clinging bottom notes, or the fonds. All this in an effort to balance out the real substance of the perfume which are the bottom notes. Left on their own, these bottom notes can be initially overpowering, and rely on the two other higher ‘chords’ to gradually introduce their heavier scents, and soften them over time.

According to its compositional notes Shalimar’s ‘notes’ are:
Top notes: bergamot, lemon, hesperidies

Middle notes: rose, jasmine, iris, patchouli, vetiver

Base notes: vanilla, incense, opoanax, sandalwood, musk, civet, ambergris, leather
Guerlain realized that a visually styled flask would elevate its perfume to the status of art. By collaborating with Baccarat crystal to form the now famous Shalimar flask, Guerlin displayed its perfume to the public for the first time, in its perfect bottle, at the famous Exhibition of Decorative Arts in Paris, in 1925. Shalimar and Art Deco were thus inaugurated. But as always, in the history of perfume, Shalimar was only following an ancient tradition where the flask is just as important as the fragrance.

Scents and fragrances have always been a mixture of pomades, oils, waters, and creams. Shalimar is no exception. In addition to the exclusive perfumes and sprays, lotions and creams promise to deliver smooth powdery textures imbued with the famous Shalimar scent.

Shalimar the perfume has come full circle. Not only as a fragrance but as a visual, aural, tactile and even flavourful concoction. As with most artistic attempts to appeal to the feminine, Shalimar has diverged into as many senses as possible to make the apparently simple experience of a perfume a rich and complex one.

References:
1. Barille, Elizabeth. Guerlin. New York : Assouline, 2000
2. Kennett, Frances. History of Perfume. London : Harrap, 1975.
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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L'Heure Bleue


The Seine at L'Heure Bleue

From Camera Lucida, September 1, 2012:
I posted in my previous post an image of the Seine at "L'Heure Bleue" without explaining the meaning of the term.

From Wikipedia:
The blue hour comes from the French expression l'heure bleue, which refers to the period of twilight each morning and evening where there is neither full daylight nor complete darkness. The time is considered special because of the quality of the light at this time of day.

Wikipedia continues with a more metaphoric meaning:
The phrase is also used to refer to Paris immediately prior to World War I, which was considered to be a time of relative innocence.
The Wikipedia site has other interesting pieces of information, including art, books, films and music which use l'heure bleue.

It is a hard moment to catch. It is not quite light, not quite dark, with a strange sense of stillness. A little like the moment of a full solar eclipse, when the earth seems momentarily to be at a standstill (I have seen a full one in 1991 in Mexico City, of course through safety glasses. One thing that struck me was the birds stopped chirping - I was near a wood - for those brief seconds).
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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All Things French (a.k.a. Perfume)


Even the Eau de Toilette's bottle (left) is a diluted version of the Parfum (right)

I haven't done a perfume review in a while.

I recently went to The Bay to see what new scents are on the perfume stands. I saw La Petite Robe Noire, Eau de Toilette, and asked the saleswoman if I could smell it.

"It smells nothing like the original," I said.

"They're completely different scents," she said. "They don't make lighter versions of the EDP with the EDT. The add completely new ingredients."

That was news to me! Toilettes have always been a lower concentration of Parfums.

"If the EDP and the EDT are different, it just looks like a strategy to get women to buy the scent in its different forms." I replied.

She had no comment on that, possibly out of ignorance.

Here are the notes of the "new" La Petite Robe Noire, Eau de Toilette:

Top: Jasmine, Rose, "Green Notes"
Middle: Sour Cherry, Orange Blossom, Apple
Base: Patchouli, Amber, White Musk

In comparison, these are the notes for the original, Eau de Parfum:

Top Notes: Bergamot, Almond, Sour Cherry, Red Berries
Middle Notes: Rose, Licorice
Base Notes: Anise, Vanilla, Patchouli, Iris

The perfume blog Pop Sugar Beauty (formerly Bella Sugar, which I consider a reliable perfume review site) writes:
All the fragrance terms...are actually just designators for different dilutions of perfume oil.

Eau de parfum/millésime/parfum de toilette

This is what most people consider "perfume," and it's the standard dilution level for women's fragrances, clocking in at between 10 and 20 percent oil (although almost always less than 15). EDPs tend to be the scents that are most noticeable to others, making them great for dates but not always optimal if you work in close quarters or spend a lot of time in the heat, which makes the smell even stronger.

Eau de toilette

These are your go-tos for warm weather or inoffensive everyday wear. They're usually less than 10 percent oil, although they can be anywhere from five to15, and they provide a lighter, slightly less complex scent than an EDP does. Fragrance counter people often position EDTs as "inferior" to EDPs, because they're lower priced, but that's simply not the case. They both have a function, and lots of scents are actually preferable in their EDT form. Don't let a sales pitch keep you from trying both, because the less expensive EDT could very well be a nicer fragrance. They're also a great "entry" to a scent; if you're not sure you'll adore a fragrance or it's a big investment, buy the EDT.
The Bay's shop woman is right. Guerlain has come up with different notes for its EDT and EDP for La Petite Robe Noire.

The EDT is an unattractive, bland scent. It is completely different from the original EDT. As I said to the saleswoman, this is just a marketing strategy from Guerlain. They can now sell two La Petite Robe Noire variations as two different perfumes. EDP and EDT owners will now want to own both.

Not me.

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Here is what I wrote on La Petite Robe Noire (Eau De Parfum) in Camera Lucida on September 1, 2012:

Guerlain's bottles for L'Heure Bleue
and La Petite Robe Noire


Guerlain, which houses my favorite perfume Shalimar (here's an article I wrote on Shalimar - Shalimar: Senses in a Bottle) has a perfume cutely titled La Petite Robe Noire, or LPRN, as the unromantic perfume saleswoman told me is the best way to remember it. What happened to knowing a little bit of French? Petite, robe, noire. Is that so hard to remember?

Of course La Petite Robe Noire is in reference to that cocktail dress which all fashionable women should have in their wardrobe.

Notes the Guerlain's La Petite Robe Noire, Eau de Parfum:
Top Notes: Bergamot, Almond, Sour Cherry, Red Berries
Middle Notes: Rose, Licorice
Base Notes: Anise, Vanilla, Patchouli, Iris

It sounds like it should smell like candy, but it has the famous Guerlinade that is present in Shalimar. It is in fact a lighter version of Shalimar, and not at all juvenile fruity as the name suggests but a good blend of floral and fruity.

The bottle for La Petite Robe Noire is exactly the same as the 1912 L'Heure Bleue (re-instated in 2012 at its 100 year anniversary). La Petite Robe Noire's bottle, which comes in a deeper purple, could have done without the cute dress illustration and the scribbly script.


The Seine at L'Heure Bleue
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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Monday, September 2, 2013

In Vogue, and Out


Vogue Magazine Cover from the 1950s
They don't make them like this anymore


I got the latest Vogue for "free" because of my accumulated Chapters/Indigo points. I do like going through the magazine's glossy pages, although I'm always disappointed at the non-fashionable fashion that makes the cut these days. We have come a long way from the heyday of Vogue, when glamorous models and women fronted the magazine (and its interior, too).

The front cover of the September 2013 issue has a pouty actress, one of the new breed that's taking over the media scene (television, magazines, movies, gossip columns). For what it's worth, it is Jennifer Lawrence (I doubt that she'll stick around long enough to be a memorable cultural icon).



Besides her pouty presence, the magazine has crowded the front cover which so many headlines that it looks exactly like the gossip/fashion magazine Cosmopolitan, which I haven't bought in years.


Salacious and crowded cover of Cosmopolitan Magazine
for September 2013



Farah Fawcette on the Vogue cover of July 1978.
Much less crowded.


I suspect I will continue to avoid buying Vogue in the future (except to redeem my card points).

In this September's issue of Vogue, I skipped through a mannequin-like pose of what I thought was a model. "Another emaciated, dead-looking fashion shot for an uninteresting dress," I thought, as I turned the page.

I found out, as correspondent David J., at Laura Wood's The Thinking Housewife writes:
Good day! While perusing the CNN website recently, I came upon a nearly cheesecake photograph of Marissa Mayer, the current CEO of Yahoo! The picture, intended for this spread in Vogue magazine, immediately reminded me of the following maxim by the late Lawrence Auster.
David J. quotes Lawrence Auster's maxim:
When men occupy a high office, it is for the purpose of doing a job. The job comes first. When women occupy a high office, it is for their self and their vanity. Public boasting about their “power” comes first, along with displays of themselves.
And he continues:
what amazes me about Ms. Mayer is that, despite her reputable academic accomplishments and immense merits in Silicon Valley, she still apparently places her sexual beauty at center stage.
Laura relies:
Well, what would you expect her to do? Of course, she’s using her attractiveness and the novelty of her position to seek attention. She is doing her job. I am sure that’s partly why she was hired though, of course, it would never be openly stated. She would be remiss in not fulfilling these expectations. She is doing her job.
The rest of the interaction is here, with other comments added.

Women may still want to look feminine and men may still want feminine (and pretty) women around, but the image of the pretty woman has changed.

We now have skinny, sculptural women who look like the manequins that pose in store windows. They have dead, expressionless eyes, and stiff wooden bodies. I suppose men are going for this since it shows some kind of prestige. After all, in this feminist world, a working woman, who can also pose for glamour magazines like Vogue, is a big catch. And her skinniness and quasi-inhumanness is a small price to pay for the prestige.

Still, I wonder how long it will be before men outright refuse to be around women like Mayer, who can probably be charming and feminine in her interactions, but who at some point will have to behave like the business woman she has to be in order not to run her company to the ground.

Or, she might assume a subsidiary, but superficially glossy position, and give the real meat of the running of a company to a ruthless male. They can call him all the names, while she gets all the praise.

Again, this is temporary. There is no guarantee that the "ruthless" male won't run her down, or out, while she's busy arranging child-care schedules and fashion shoots with ladies' magazines. Actually, I think that there is ample guarantee that a male colleague will do just that.


Marissa Mayer, CEO of Yahoo, posing in a rubber-like dress for the prestigious fashion magazine Vogue,
in the September 2013 issue.

She is wearing a Michael Kors Sheath (that's how the magazine describes the dress) for $1,896


Wikipedia describes a sheath dress as:
...a type of dress designed to fit close to the body, relatively unadorned [which] typically falls around the knees or lower thighs.
The dress looks like its made out of rubber (and that is probably the intended effect), but a closer look in the magazine photo shows that it is wool. Strange, on many counts. Mayer looks like she's lounging on some kind of pool-side chair. And wearing wool? The dress is short-sleeved. Wool dresses are meant for keeping one warm, but Kors and Mayer are not after practicality, but glamour. And finally, this rubber effect gives an S&M quality to the image. Is that how a CEO wants to portray herself? Apparently so.

Here are some hilarious Vogue 2009 shots titled "Pregnant in Prada" of Mayer in maternity wear, and the various Vogue selections to enhance her pregnancy wardrobe:


"Pregnant in Prada"
Mayer in 2009 Vogue


Here is the 2009 Vogue "Tuesday" ensemble, for the pregnant CEO, from a select group of designers:


Clockwise from left:
Boy. by Band of Outsiders leather-trim blazer, $1,395
lagarconne.com

J Brand 340 leggings-style maternity jeans, $195
net-a-porter.com

Proenza Schouler PS1 iPad case, $685
barneys.com

Reed Krakoff oxford leather loafers, $625
net-a-porter.com


Stylish, they are not. But practical and comfortable, for the busy pregnant lady, with the huge pocket book.

Women have come a long way. Actually, not so long. Look at Jennifer Lawrence's Vogue pose from above, a twenty-three-year-old woman who is pouting like Nabokov's pre-adolescent Lolita.


Left: Sue Lyon as Lolita, in Stanley Kubrik's 1962 film Lolita (after Nabokov's 1955 book, Lolita)
Right: Jennifer Lawrence on Vogue's 2013 cover


Women will be women, and girls will be girls. If left to their own devices, they will simply start to pout, or arrange day-care schedules from their top-floor, glass offices.

And back to CEO Mayer.

Paul, at the Thinking Housewife, writes, referring to a 2013 photograph of Mayer:
And she is not even beautiful. She might have been at one time, but no more. She needs to cut her hair.
This may be a harsh, but Mayer asked for it. She is so busy scheduling executive meetings and nanny pick-ups, that her glamour shots of previous years have gone down the tube.

Hers is the look of the veteran do-it-all female of our era.

Here is the 2013 photograph:



The caption to the photograph reads:
Pictured in 2013, Mayer has often been named one of the most powerful women in business. "I didn't set out to be at the top of technology companies," she told Vogue magazine. "I'm just geeky and shy and I like to code. ... It's not like I had a grand plan where I weighed all the pros and cons of what I wanted to do—it just sort of happened."
Good excuse: she's just geeky and shy, with a million-dollar wardrobe budget.

Here is Mayer, a few years ago, in 2008 (left), pretty and smiling, and the toll on her "it just sort of happened" face in 2013:



As Paul said: "And she is not even beautiful. She might have been at one time, but no more. She needs to cut her hair."

Of course, she had to upgrade (re-upgrade, I wonder how long it took to make her look that good) her look for the September 2013 Vogue article, but its back to business when she gets back to business.

Back to the Vogue issue. The eccentric photographer Annie Leibovitz has done a great job of portraying the Irish landscape, with her series of photographs. The clothes, as is usual in the 21st century depiction of style and beauty, are atrocious, but the scenery is stunningly beautiful. Here's one:



But this is its only redeeming quality.

More dead mannequins in the September 2013 Vogue:


The caption reads:
Tripping The Light Fantastic

Built for women who seem to be really, really going places: practical, everyday chic—no fidgety patterns or trims to muck up travel, intergalactic or otherwise.
The models have names:

Raquel (standing on the right) is wearing:
- Narciso Rodriguez tangerine shift, $1,895
neimanmarcus.com. Céline necklace. Michael Kors heels.

Toni:
- Balenciaga wool-mohair sweater with plaster effect ($1,545)
- Balenciaga Crepe pants ($1,235)
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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Michelle Obama's and Jane Fonda's Fashionable Civil Rights Contribution: In Speeches and Films

It's time to bring back FLOTUS on Reclaiming Beauty.

While her husband was in Washington DC making his Martin Luther Kind Day speech on August 28 (which I covered here), Michelle Obama was making a speech of her own on August 27.

The First Lady:
...hosted a special student screening at the White House of The Powerbroker: Whitney Young’s Fight For Civil Rights, a documentary that chronicles the life and achievements of this little-known civil rights great.
The Powerbroker: Whitney Young’s Fight For Civil Rights:
...follows [Whitney Young’s] journey from segregated Kentucky to head of the National Urban League. Unique among black leaders, he took the fight directly to the powerful white elite, gaining allies in business and government, including three presidents. Young had the difficult tasks of calming the fears of white allies, relieving the doubts of fellow civil rights leaders and responding to attacks from the militant Black Power movement.
(More information on the film, and on Whitney Young, here.)
Here is some of what Mrs. Obama said in her speech:
- It is important to remember that history, and important to remember what went into making change. [There's that word "change"]
- We are counting on you all [students] to be ready to take the helm and be agents of change, because there is a lot of work to do. [Change, again]
- ..this documentary shows us [...] that there are so many unsung heroes in our history whose impact we still feel today, just regular folks. They're not always going to be the Barack Obamas, the Dr. Kings, the Malcolm Xs.
- And we’re counting on you all to be ready to take the helm and be the next agents of change, because there is still a lot of work to do.
I couldn't do a post without some Michelle fashion, so here it is:

At the speech, Mrs. Obama wore the following:



A patchwork dress by Duro Olowu. (By the way, I came up with this description without reading Olowu's own use of "patchwork" to describe his style - see the quote below.)

About Olowu's "patchwork" style:
This Nigerian born and UK resident print aficionado first caught the fashion world’s attention in 2005 with what’s been coined as the ‘Duro dress’ : a silk kimono-like wide-sleeved, high-waisted patchwork dress accentuated at the waist, sleeves and hem with a wide contrasting print band. [Source: Essence, March 12, 2010]
Michelle Obama has been "promoting" black designers in her choice of public wear. This time, it is the Nigeria-born, London designer Duro Oluwu.

Some of his clothes are well-tailored, but he seems to vacilate between the "messy" patchwork designs and the more formal tailored suits.

So it is a mystery why Mrs. Obama chose his loose, messy shapeless dress rather than a neatly crafted suit.

Perhaps it isn't such a mystery. This patchwork could refers to West African "patch" style long, loose dresses, although those dresses are much better tailored, and the patchwork often more cohesive. Or the tradition of patchwork quilts by black Americans. But, I don't think blacks ever wore those quilts.

Olowu says that his design method is:
"...eclectic, filled with inspirations that come from different worlds. Untidy..."
Perhaps that is the way Olowu can make a name for himself. It is not that hard to make decent, tailored clothes from patterns. But competing with couture designers brings the competition to a whole different level. It requires that one make a show, presenting some edginess (or as I would call it, weirdness) in order to enter that realm.

I think Olowu hit the jackpot with his patchwork dresses (like the mediocre Diana Von Fursterberg hit the jackpot with her wrap dresses). And Olowu got the First Lady to notice him! He also has a full display of his Spring 2013 Ready To Wear collection in various online fashion sites. He was even featured in Vogue last February 2012.

Michelle also has a new hairdo to show us, with light brown/reddish highlights:



It looks tacky, and, well, patchy, as though her hairdresser (not hair stylist) gave her the latest trend in hair color.

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Jane Fonda was also busy this week-end, promoting her new film The Butler, where she plays Nancy Reagan.

She is quite a bit older than Michelle Obama (seventy-five years to Michelle's forty-nine), and she clearly colors her hair, or is wearing a wig, but her recent photos show her looking like a well-groomed older woman. She's had plastic surgery, which she's admitted to, and I agree with her that:
“Good genes and a lot of money [are my beauty secrets]. Being able to have good skincare, facials when I need it [has been important]. I’ve had plastic surgery."
Here is Jane Fonda, in Cannes promoting the make-up brand L'Oreal this past May:


Jane Fonda in Cannes as "brand ambassador" for L'Oreal,
in a Badgley Mischka dress.

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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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Sunday, September 1, 2013

Obama's Martin Luther King Day Speech


Obama in front of the Lincoln Memorial, presenting his speech for the
50th anniversary of Martin Luther King's march on Washington, on August 28, 2013


I'm posting below excerpts from Obama's "I have a dream" speech which he gave on the 50th Anniversary of Martin Luther King's march on Washington. The event was commemorated at the "Let Freedom Ring" ceremony, on August 28, the title being a quote quote from King's speech.

The event took place at the Lincoln Memorial. Obama chose that location since it is where Martin Luther King also presented his "I have a dream" speech in 1963.

I waded through Google images and a sixteen minute video of King giving his speech, and could find no images of him standing in front of the memorial.

But, while viewing the video, I can come upon white-capped men on the stage with King. Below is a long shot of him at the memorial (a screen-shot from the video), surrounded by the men wearing the white caps.



It looks like the men are wearing Gandhi caps, I suppose signifying the "non-violence" mantra that Gandhi initiated to activate social change, and which King said he followed.



The image above is from the online Christianity Today, in a January 21, 2013 article titled: Why I Changed My Mind About Martin Luther King's 'I Have a Dream' Speech.

Audrey Ruth comments on the white-capped men shown in the article:
August 29, 2013: There's not just one man in a white hat behind MLK in that pic -- there are a lot of them. The prevailing wisdom is that MLK was inspired by Gandhi above all. He did quote some scripture, but, as noted below, He did not believe that Jesus was/is Lord. He had some Muslim friends too, including Malcolm X. The bottom line, though, is that if any white preacher is immoral, he is deemed unworthy, period. He's not given a chance by the public to repent and be restored to the Lord. But people seem to give black preachers a pass on such things. I've noticed this through the years and wonder why this is so. I also noticed that not one black conservative leader was at the MLK memorial yesterday, yet he said he wanted people to be judged by their character, period. It doesn't look like that day will come anytime soon.
Here is are forum participants commenting on the Gandhi caps:
okay, so they are Ghandi caps. But that leads to my next question: what's up with Ghandi caps in America?

Obviously, Martin Luther King proudly associated himself with Ghandi's movement and its messsage of non-violence. But had the Ghandi cap become a popular symbol in America of 1963? Or was it pretty much limited to this one demonstration, and then faded away?

When I think of the famous historical symbols of the civil rights movement, I don't think of Ghandi caps. If I had been an average American watching the news that night in 1963 --would I have recognized the caps as a political statement? or as having any meaning at all?
One other point, this time on Obama's choice of his speech venue: Wouldn't it have been more meaningful to have held it in front of the Martin Luther King statue, and pass the torch on to King, rather than use other symbolic references to him?



There is ample space for a large crowd in front of the MLK statue, and some kind of platform could have been built for the speech makers.

I wonder if the statue is aesthetically unappealing to the event organizers, and deterred Obama and his organizing crew from setting the speech's stage before it?

Lawrence Auster wrote in 2011:
I’ve said the statue looks like an Oriental despot. But it’s more than that. It looks like a statue from one of the ancient cosmological empires, in which the pharoah, the god-king, personally embodies the all-ruling forces of the cosmos. Specifically, King’s hostile posture and facial expression are reminiscent of the ferocious statues of the kings of Assyria, that empire that crushed every nation it conquered until it was conquered and crushed itself.
Here are excerpts from Obama's August 28, 2013 "I have a dream" speech:
Because they marched [on August 28, 1963], America became more free and more fair, not just for African-Americans but for women and Latinos, Asians and Native Americans, for Catholics, Jews and Muslims, for gays, for Americans with disabilities.

[...]

To dismiss the magnitude of this progress, to suggest, as some sometimes do, that little has changed -- that dishonors the courage and the sacrifice of those who paid the price to march in those years.

[...]

But we would dishonor those heroes as well to suggest that the work of this nation is somehow complete. The arc of the moral universe may bend towards justice, but it doesn't bend on its own. To secure the gains this country has made requires constant vigilance, not complacency. Whether it's by challenging those who erect new barriers to the vote or ensuring that the scales of justice work equally for all in the criminal justice system and not simply a pipeline from underfunded schools to overcrowded jails it requires vigilance.

[...]

Yes, there have been examples of success within black America that would have been unimaginable a half-century ago. But as has already been noted, black unemployment has remained almost twice as high as white employment (sic), Latino unemployment close behind. The gap in wealth between races has not lessened, it's grown.

[T]he position of all working Americans, regardless of color, has eroded, making the dream Dr. King described even more elusive.

[...]

And what had once been a call for equality of opportunity, the chance for all Americans to work hard and get ahead was too often framed as a mere desire for government support, as if we had no agency in our own liberation, as if poverty was an excuse for not raising your child and the bigotry of others was reason to give up on yourself. All of that history is how progress stalled. That's how hope was diverted. It's how our country remained divided.

[...]

[W]e can stand together for good jobs and just wages. With that courage, we can stand together for the right to health care in the richest nation on earth for every person. (Applause.) With that courage, we can stand together for the right of every child, from the corners of Anacostia to the hills of Appalachia, to get an education that stirs the mind and captures the spirit and prepares them for the world that awaits them. (Applause.) With that courage, we can feed the hungry and house the homeless and transform bleak wastelands of poverty into fields of commerce and promise.

[...]

And that's the lesson of our past, that's the promise of tomorrow, that in the face of impossible odds, people who love their country can change it.
Obama is very clever.
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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The New York Public Library's Great Reading Room


The Deborah, Jonathan F. P., Samuel Priest, and Adam R. Rose Main Reading Room is a majestic public space, measuring 78 feet by 297 feet—roughly the length of two city blocks—and weaving together Old World architectural elegance with modern technology. The award-wining restoration of this room was completed in 1998, thanks to a fifteen million-dollar gift from Library trustee Sandra Priest Rose and Frederick Phineas Rose, who renamed the room in honor of their children.

Here, patrons can read or study at long oak tables lit by elegant bronze lamps, beneath fifty-two foot tall ceilings decorated by dramatic murals of vibrant skies and billowing clouds...

...

In one of his memoirs, New York Jew, [Alfred] Kazin described his youthful impression of the reading room: “There was something about the . . . light falling through the great tall windows, the sun burning smooth the tops of the golden tables as if they had been freshly painted—that made me restless with the need to grab up every book, press into every single mind right there on the open shelves.” [Source: NYPL]
In my post on the New York Public Library, Dean Ericson left the following comment:
My 16 year-old nephew was visiting earlier in the summer, his first trip to New York City. The Public Library was one place I brought him and we made a thorough tour of every public space. It is simply one of the world's greatest buildings; grand in concept, perfect in design, and brilliant in craftsmanship. If you come to the City don't miss this inspirational evidence of a superior civilization.
-Dean Ericson
I am happy to inform Dean that I have been inside the library. It was primarily to ask information on membership. I did get my library card, actually two cards: one the size of a credit card, and the other a thinner one with a hole at the top. The latter, as I was informed, is to put on a key chain or something. I got my cards in the great reading room, where it was so quiet, I could hear a pin drop (or the papers rustling). I didn't want to take a photo of this grand interior, but hopefully I will do so the next time.
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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Cacophony


Statue of St. Paul, facing Larry's grave

Dean Ericson left a couple of comments on my post Like as the Hart and a Cacophony of Cicadas .

One made me laugh:
Good to see Lorenzo's resting place in summer, and his sheltering oak tree in leaf. It was bare branched the early April day of his burial. I see St. Paul is clutching an assault weapon and wearing a determined expression. About cicadas: earlier this summer my wife and I were north of the city, along the Hudson River, visiting an historic estate. The air was alive with millions of cicadas, buzzing, humming, and flying -- they filled hundreds of acres of woodland with a vast, deep droning that rose and fell in waves of synchronicity. Wikipedia tells us they are edible (the females being "meatier"). Cicada pie, anyone? The Choir of St Paul's Cathedral selection is heavenly. Great post, thank you.
-Dean Ericson
Yes, I can imagine Larry being defended with an assault weapon, even in heaven. His words must be affecting even in the pious settings. Actually, I believe that we continue with the roles we undertook on earth after we depart. That is why it is so important to be brave, and to seek truth and goodness, despite the adversary and antagonism which we undoubtedly receive here, as Larry constantly did. What we do on earth will continue up there, in all its bravery, or its limitations. It is up to us what we chose to do here.

The other comment on that post is Dean's explanation of the sound of cicadas:
It was not a cacophony. Groups of cicadas were synchronizing themselves into choirs. It would start with a few cicadas then all of them in that locale - perhaps they organized by tree, "all right elm #46, hit it!" -- would join in until the buzzing reached a crescendo then it would decrescendo in the space of about a minute. Probably each tree had a conductor who looked like an insect Herbert von Karajan. Listening, you could discern various choruses rising and falling throughout the depth of the woods. It was music, but of a strange and primitive kind, with great vigor, and weirdly moving.
-Dean
Yes, that is right. It was a surge, then a decline. And there were various "voices." And while it lasted, the peak of the surge was loud and almost deafening. So it was music. And this fits Larry's aesthetics perfectly, where he would choose art rather than noise.

But, I think I was reacting to the strength, or the power, of this "noise." I think to travel all those distances, literally and spiritually (as I wrote in the post), a strong medium was necessary. And these cicadas became the perfect channel.
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Hollywood Setting Things Straight: Oprah et al. Are Rich!



I agree with the film reviews that Oprah's acting in Lee Daniels' latest film The Butler is good. But it is not exceptional. How hard is it for an intelligent, black woman like Oprah to act like a black woman? She was acting type.

In an interview about The Butler, I am reminded that Oprah was the producer for Precious, that awful, badly directed, badly acted film about welfare fraud directed by Daniels, but which he presents as black victimization (as I wrote here). No wonder she's back again on Daniels' crew.

Oprah is doing the interview circuit basically saying that things haven't gone far enough for blacks in America. Here is the richest woman in American media talking!

Now, Forest Whitaker, the butler of the film, deserves praise for his acting, because he really had to act. Whitaker is a trained actor. He studied acting in Berkeley. He has also trained as a classical singer - an operatic tenor. His family history includes a grandfather who was an author.

But, in The Butler, the butler that Whitaker decided to portray, or was directed to portray, was that of a cripple of a human being: lifeless and listless. And that choice of character was not just an artistic choice. Like everything else in this film, it was also to address a socio-cultural grievance.

Photographs of Eugene Allen, the "real" butler, do show him in subservient poses during White House functions. He is a butler, after all, and in the White House. Even ordinary waiters in restaurants have to assume some kind of subservience to their customers, unless they want the manager involved. But Allen is also photographed in the White House looking genuinely happy. His personal encounters with presidents and their wives show him pleased to be in their presence, where he seems more like a trusted friend than a servant.

In an interview on CNN, Whitaker talks about:
...the circular motion of things still trying working themselves is going on, as in Emmitt Till, and we’re looking at Trayvon, we’re looking at Oscar Grant, we’re looking at all these situations and recognizing we have to move ourselves forward with this change.
Ah yes, what Trayvon Martin revealed about America.

Whitaker is too cautious to use the word racism, in this era of ample, and continued, black privilege. but he doesn't need to. Coming from a black man, everyone knows what that "change" is. After all, Obama made it the word of his campaign.

I will add here that Eguene Allen, the "real" butler, was a light-skinned black man. Lee Daniels, like all the films he makes, adds a socio-cultural critique even in his choice of actors, let alone themes.

I think Daniels carefully chose the very dark-skinned (and clearly negroid-featured) Forest Whitaker as the "black" butler of the White House. The darker the butler, the more grievous the white crime.

Lenny Kravitz, who acts as one of the White House domestic staff in the film, would have been a better candidate. His acting wasn't that bad either.




Lenny Kravitz, photoshopped with a balding hair,
and Eugene Allen during the Eisenhower years



Left: Forest Whitaker as the butler, in Daniels' film
Right: Eugene Allen, the White House butler, during the Eisenhower years

Look at the listless, lifeless, expression that Whitaker takes on,
Whereas Allen hasn't lost his character. He has his head lowered,
and he looks a little cautious. But surely that is normal, since
the photograph is from this scene (posted below), where Eisenhower
is clearly discussing important national issues, and wouldn't want
anyone disturbing their meeting.



Allen during a meeting held by Eisenhower.

I cannot find what the meeting was about.
It looks like a delegate from Africa,
or Black Americans in a discussion with the President


Here is Allen at a Ford family gathering during President Ford's White House:



And President Ford leaving the White House and the presidency, solemnly saying goodbye to a beaming Allen:



With Nancy Reagan, happy to greet Allen, and with a beaming Ronald Reagan:



Below is an interview of Eugene Allen in the 1992 Smithsonian Folklife Festival’s Workers at the White House documentary: White House Workers: Traditions and Memories. Allen is alert and informative, and nothing like the dull creature extracted from some nefarious depths by Whitaker.



The Butler stars recently came out in all their finery for the film's Los Angeles premiere. Nothing like a movie premier to set things straight: Oprah et al. are rich!


Oprah, the 59-year-old adolescent, who likes to "talk"


A more self-effacing Jane Fonda, who seems
to have reformed from her Hanoi Jane days



Forest Whitaker with his wife Keisha


Cuba Gooding Jr., with his white wife.
Is she racist?


It is interesting that successful blacks still (always?) seem to gravitate towards white, or very light-skinned black, women. And they still continue with their anti-white rants.
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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